Landscape Lighting
Landscape Lighting Placement Basics
Placement principles for path, accent, and architectural lighting — fixture counts, spacing, and the glare mistakes to design out.
Good landscape lighting is placed by effect, not by fixture count: you are lighting the tree, the wall texture, the walking surface — never the viewer's eyes. Layout happens on plan and then gets confirmed at night with test leads before anything is buried.
The core techniques
- Uplighting: fixtures at grade washing up into canopy or trunk. The workhorse for trees and architecture.
- Path lighting: low, shielded fixtures spreading pools of light on walking surfaces.
- Wash lighting: wide-beam fixtures set back to evenly graze walls, hedges, and screens.
- Moonlighting: fixtures mounted 20-plus feet up in a mature tree aiming down through branches — the most natural effect on the menu, worth selling on any property with big canopy.
- Silhouette and shadow: light behind a specimen against a wall (silhouette) or in front, throwing branch shadows onto the wall (shadow play). Cheap drama with one fixture.
| Application | Fixture / output | Placement |
|---|---|---|
| Small ornamental tree (to 15 ft) | 1 to 2 uplights, 200 to 400 lumens | 12 to 18 in off trunk, aimed at canopy interior |
| Shade tree 20 ft+ | 2 to 3 uplights, 400 to 900 lumens | 2 to 4 ft off trunk at 120-degree spacing; one tight beam up the trunk, wider beams into canopy |
| Path or walk | Path lights, 100 to 200 lumens | 8 to 10 ft apart, alternating sides, 12 to 18 in off the edge |
| Facade / wall wash | Wide-flood, 300 to 500 lumens | Set out from wall roughly half the wall height, spaced 6 to 8 ft |
| Steps and grade changes | Recessed or hardscape lights | Every step run lit — this one is safety, not style |
Rules that separate pro work from the box-store look
- Light the destination, not the journey — a runway of forty path lights reads like an airstrip. Fewer, better-placed fixtures with dark intervals create depth.
- Hide the source. Shrouds, glare guards, and placement behind foliage; if you can see the LED from the patio or the street, move it or shield it.
- Keep color temperature consistent: 2700K warm white for plant material and residential architecture; reserve 3000K for stone and contemporary facades. Never mix on one property face.
- Aim at 30 degrees or less off vertical where possible; steeper angles throw light and glare into windows and eyes.
- Do not light everything. Choose three to five hero moments per elevation and let the rest fall dark — contrast is the design.
- Respect the neighbors and the bedroom windows: no fixture should throw light off the property or into glass.
Layout process
- Mark hero elements on plan: specimen trees, entry, facade features, water, destination seating.
- Assign a technique and fixture count to each from the table above; add path and step safety lighting last, minimally.
- Sum fixture wattage for transformer sizing (see the transformer reference) and plan wire runs while the trencher is already mobilized for irrigation if possible.
- Demo at night with test leads and alligator clips before burying wire — walk the client through it. Night demos close upsells that daytime plans never will.
- Aim and lock every fixture at night after install, then re-aim once more 30 days later after settling.
Maintenance is placement too
Fixtures in mulch get buried; fixtures in turf get mowed. Place at bed edges on stakes with slack wire loops so fixtures move as plants mature, and put a twice-yearly re-aim and lens cleaning in the maintenance contract.
Start every lighting sale with the demo kit, three techniques, and one transformer sized with headroom for the phase-two fixtures the client will ask for in the spring.
Have a question about material for this job? Call the yard at (817) 431-9490 or browse live inventory.